Red Bubble Tip Anemone With White Speckles Photographed By: Phil Henderson

Entacmaea quadricolor is more commonly known as Bubble Tip Anemone, Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, Rose Anemone, Bulb Anemone, Bulb Tentacle Anemone, or Maroon Sea Anemone. This reef safe anemone originates primarily from the Fiji islands, but can be found anywhere from Southeast Asia to the Hawaiian Islands.

Anemones use microscopic stinging cells in their tentacles called "nematocysts" in order to stun their prey, and as a defense mechanism.  Once the prey is stunned, the tentacles move the now food towards the center of its disk, and into the mouth. The sting is less potent than other anemone species and under normal circumstances does not affect human tissue (Word of warning some people have reported allergies to these animals, though rare in occurrence). Under normal circumstances a single opening serves as a mouth, for both food intake and to expel waste.

These creatures are supported internally by water, which in turn houses zooxanthellae within its tentacles and body or base. The zooxanthella is what gives the anemone its color as well as a natural food source (supplemental feeding is still recommended). This is exactly why a strong light source is recommended but not necessary.

These anemones have been recorded to reach sizes of up to 15 inches across at its base (not foot). Which brings us to an aquarium size of no less than 24 gallons, however several aquarists have had success with these anemones in smaller nano aquariums. This brings a whole new set of issues that will affect the health and life span of the said anemone. Some of which may include stress from cramped quarters after it outgrows its aquarium, as well as water conditions that fluctuate to often or widely. Keep in mind that in a smaller aquarium it is increasingly difficult to control the water parameters accurately, primarily due to the inpatients of the owner. Any changes to the water parameters need to be done gradually, otherwise it will be stressful for the anemone sometimes leading to death.

Red Bubble Tip Anemone Photographed By: Mitch529

PC (Power Compact) Best if used in shallow tanks up to 24 inches in height. 50/50 Daylight/Actinic 10,000 Kelvin bulbs are recommended.

VHO (Very High Output)

MH (Metal Halide)

HO (High Output)

 

Temperature: 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)

Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025

PH: 8.1 - 8.4

Carbonate Hardness (dKH): 8 - 12

Calcium: 380 – 430 ppm

Pink Bubble Tip Anemone Photographed By: Unknown

Contrary to some people’s beliefs, food from both photosynthesis and supplemental feeding of meaty foods is necessary for a healthy specimen. A healthy specimen should have a round cylindrical body with inflated tentacles, not necessarily bubbled but full. The mouth should be closed tightly unless it is accumulating, feeding, or discharging waste. Meaty foods soaked in products like Selcon not only aid in the anemones health, but has also been reported to improve its color.

Recommended Supplemental Foods:

Brine Shrimp (flakes or frozen) frozen sink better than flakes.
Bloodworms (frozen or freeze dried) frozen bloodworms sink better than freeze dried.
Silversides chopped and cut open no larger than the mouth of the anemone.
Uncooked Shrimp chopped and cut open no larger than the mouth of the anemone.

 

Red Bubble Tip Anemone In The Process Of Splitting Photographed By: Magellan007

Reproduction is achieved by one of three methods. First by splitting into two by means of cloning which is reported by many aquarists out there to be induced by several methods.

1. Supplemental feeding twice a week or more (most common method in the home aquarium. However, too much feeding induces stress and can lead to death as well).

1. Stress brought on by changes in the water column parameters, or lighting (not a recommended method).

1. Slicing, cutting, or rubber banding the anemone down the middle (the most dangerous method which often then not leads to the death of both halves).

Secondly by the release of gametes and sperm which requires at least two anemones of the same species, when combined, to form floating seeds. Once the seeds are fertilized they slowly sink and attach to live rock where a new anemone will form (very difficult to do in the home aquarium, mainly due to the havoc that this release can cause to an aquarium system water parameters). Otherwise, these gametes or seeds become tasty treats for other coral and fish alike.

Should your anemone release sperm into your aquarium, follow these steps as soon as possible.

1. Begin mixing and storing large amounts of water to execute several water changes.

1. If chemical filtration is not being used, it should be started or old media should be replaced with fresh media.

1. Skimmer needs to be engaged to run at full capacity if not already running. Make sure that the skimmer gets cleaned thoroughly to ensure none of the film makes its way back into the system. This should include the collection cup, contact chamber, cap or cover, and any other portion that may come in contact with the film collected.

1. As a safety measure, you may want to remove if possible any livestock that may be threatened by the chemical changes in the system.

With all this in mind, one of the most rewarding methods for reproduction is patience. Please be patient with these creatures because for some, it doesn’t matter what you do. They may never split or multiply for reasons we don’t know at this time.

Similar to the symbiotic relationship that zooxanthellae has to an anemone, certain types of fish, crabs, and shrimp can co-exist with the said anemone. This relationship can be beneficial to both parties in more than one way.

 

Known Fish Hosts:               Known Crab Hosts:                  Known Shrimp Hosts:

Clark's Clownfish
Tomato Clownfish
Ocellaris Clownfish
Maroon Clownfish
Percula Clownfish

This coral has the ability to move around the aquarium on its own to find a suitable location. Ledges and overhangs in live rock up off the sand substrate are often their preferred locations. This is not normal behavior after the anemone becomes settled.

Some of the known situations for when an anemone starts moving about are:

1. Light obstruction.
1. Aged bulbs that need replacement.
2. Shadow or light obstruction from added equipment, coral, rockwork, and sometime coral growth above the anemone.
2. Changes in the anemones diet.
1. Feedings that are done to far apart.
2. Food that is too large for it to properly digest.
3. Changes in the water column.
1. Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, etc. to high.
2. PH level too high or to low.
3. Alkalinity too high or to low.
4. Calcium, iodine, strontium, etc. too high or low.

When the anemone decides on its new location. Do not attempt to move the anemone unless it is absolutely necessary, and should only be done as a last resort. The reasoning behind this is to protect the foot of the animal. Any damage to the foot may result in the death of the anemone.

There are several effective ways to remove the creature, however patience is needed to insure that it is removed unharmed.

1. The concentration of a powerhead at the base and foot of an anemone will force it to move within minutes. However, do not exceed the concentrated water flow for more than fifteen minutes. Some anemones simply do not respond to this method, and further exposure to high current can harm the anemone.
2. An ice cube made from reverse osmosis water rubbed on the foot of the said anemone until it releases or pulls away. Then again long or multiple exposure to the cold temperature the ice cube creates can be harmful to the anemone. As a word of warning, use common sense and be patient.
3. Removal of the rock the said anemone is attached to and carefully chipping away the rock it is attached to. Keep in mind that any damage to the foot of the anemone lowers its chances for survival even in the best of aquariums.

 

Each anemone can act in a way that seems odd or unusual compared to others, which is perfectly normal. Every creature will have a characteristic or behavior different from another, which is what makes this hobby interesting. Not all anemones will act in the same matter.

Don’t be alarmed if the anemone shrinks, pulls its tentacles inward, or balls up after a feeding for several hours or sometimes days. This is normal behavior for the anemone, which is focusing its energy on digesting the food.

Occasional wilting or deflating of its tentacles is common for an anemone according to most aquarists. It is believed that this is done to completely expel or flush its system of waste. Although some expansion and contraction is normal, frequent, constant, or deflation for long periods of time may be a sign of failing health.

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